Upper Mustang Forbidden Kingdom Expedition

Overview

Upper Mustang sits in the rain shadow of the Himalaya, so the landscape is desert: eroded cliffs in red, ochre and grey, with green barley fields around each village. Foreigners need a Restricted Area Permit and a licensed guide to enter. The road from Kagbeni to Lo Manthang is dirt and gravel, with some sand and river crossings.

• The walled city of Lo Manthang (3,840 m) and its 15th century monasteries
• Sky caves and the Chhoser cave complex near the Tibetan border
• Red cliffs of Dhakmar and the long mani wall at Ghami
• Charang monastery and the old royal palace
• Muktinath temple and Kagbeni village

Itinerary

1. 1

   Day 1

   Pokhara to Tatopani via Beni

   • ~110 km
   • 5 to 6 hrs
   • 1,190 m
   • Stay: Tatopani

   Paved road to Beni, then the Kali Gandaki dirt road. Hot springs in the evening.

2. 2

   Day 2

   Tatopani to Kagbeni via Marpha and Jomsom

   • ~75 km
   • 5 hrs
   • 2,810 m
   • Stay: Kagbeni

   Up the gorge between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, past Kalopani and Marpha to Jomsom and Kagbeni. Permit paperwork for Upper Mustang.

3. 3

   Day 3

   Kagbeni to Charang via Chele, Samar and Ghami

   • ~65 km
   • 5 to 6 hrs
   • 3,560 m
   • Stay: Charang

   Restricted area check post at Kagbeni, then north through Chhusang, over passes near 4,000 m, past Samar and Ghami to Charang. Visit the red monastery.

4. 4

   Day 4

   Charang to Lo Manthang

   • ~12 km
   • 1 hr
   • 3,840 m
   • Stay: Lo Manthang

   A short ride to the walled city. Afternoon walking tour of the Jampa, Thubchen and Chhoede monasteries and the royal palace.

5. 5

   Day 5

   Side trip to Chhoser caves and Garphu

   • ~30 km return
   • 3 hrs
   • Stay: Lo Manthang

   Ride north to the Jhong cave (five-storey sky cave) and Nyiphu and Garphu monasteries, then back to Lo Manthang.

6. 6

   Day 6

   Lo Manthang to Muktinath via Ghami and Kagbeni

   • ~95 km
   • 6 to 7 hrs
   • 3,710 m
   • Stay: Muktinath (Ranipauwa)

   South past the Dhakmar red cliffs and the Ghami mani wall, down to Kagbeni and up to Muktinath. Visit the temple.

7. 7

   Day 7

   Muktinath to Tatopani

   • ~90 km
   • 5 to 6 hrs
   • 1,190 m
   • Stay: Tatopani

   Down to Jomsom and the gorge, with a last soak in the hot springs.

8. 8

   Day 8

   Tatopani to Pokhara

   • ~110 km
   • 5 to 6 hrs
   • 822 m
   • Stay: Pokhara

   Down to Beni and the paved highway back to Lakeside.

Distances and riding times are approximate. They change with road works, weather and photo stops.

What's included

Your quote confirms exactly what is included. Self-ride without a guide is possible on routes that do not need one.

Permits and good to know

• Above Kagbeni the land is desert with very few fuel stops. We carry spare fuel.
• Upper Mustang is in the rain shadow, so it can be ridden in the monsoon when other routes are wet.
• Nights in Lo Manthang are cold even in autumn. Bring a warm sleeping layer.
• Days 3 and 6 are long on loose surfaces. Previous dirt riding experience is needed.